The black sand beach
Next to Seixal's small harbour, the Praia do Porto do Seixal is a beach of fine, soft black sand formed by volcanic rock – natural sand, unlike the imported golden sand of beaches such as Calheta. Behind it rise steep green mountains streaked with waterfalls, one of the most photographed beach views on the island.
A breakwater shelters the beach from the biggest waves, but this is the north coast and the Atlantic can be rough, especially outside summer. There is no lifeguard on the beach, only basic showers, so swim only when the sea is calm. Parking is the main problem: there is a small car park by the harbour and some spaces along the road, which fill up early on sunny days and at weekends.
The natural pools
A few hundred metres away, the Poça das Lesmas natural pools are basins in the black lava rock refilled by the sea, next to the small Laje beach, also known as Jamaica. The parish charges a small entry fee (about €2.50) and there is a snack bar, toilets and changing rooms. The access road is very steep, so it is easier to park above and walk down.
Lifeguard cover at the pools has varied from year to year, so check on arrival. In summer, the pool of the Clube Naval next to the pier is also supervised. If you want bigger pools with more facilities, the lava pools of Porto Moniz are 15 minutes away.
The Véu da Noiva waterfall
On the coast road between São Vicente and Seixal, the Véu da Noiva (Bride's Veil) viewpoint looks out over a waterfall that plunges down the cliff straight towards the sea. It is free, with a car park and a small shop, and gets busy with coaches in the middle of the morning. See more in our guide to Madeira's waterfalls.
Vineyards and wine
The slopes around Seixal are covered in small vineyards on terraces, protected from the salty wind by fences of heather. Their grapes, especially Sercial, go into Madeira wine and into local table wines made by Seixal's growers. Some family vineyards offer short tours with a tasting; ask locally, and see Madeira wine for the background.
Chão da Ribeira and the laurel forest
Above the village, the valley of Chão da Ribeira runs deep into the UNESCO-listed laurel forest, with old thatched haystacks, a picnic park and the starting points of several canyoning trips. Higher up, on the Paul da Serra plateau, lies the misty Fanal forest.
Getting there and combining the north-west
From Funchal, take the expressway north through the tunnels to São Vicente and follow the coast road west: about 50–60 minutes. Sections of the old coast road are sometimes closed because of rockfall risk, so follow the signs. Buses run only a few times a day, so a rental car or a tour is the practical choice.
Seixal fits easily into a day with Porto Moniz, São Vicente and Fanal. Many jeep tours of the west stop here for a swim or a photo, which saves you the parking.
Frequently asked questions
Is the sand on Seixal beach really black?
Yes. It is natural black volcanic sand, which makes Seixal one of the few natural sand beaches in Madeira.
Can you swim at Seixal?
Yes, when the sea is calm. A breakwater shelters the beach, but the north coast can get rough and there is no lifeguard on the beach, so the natural pools are a safer choice on wavy days.
Do the Seixal natural pools cost money?
The Poça das Lesmas pools charge a small entry fee of about €2.50, which includes access to the facilities. Prices can change, so check on arrival.
Seixal or Porto Moniz?
Porto Moniz has bigger lava pools with more facilities; Seixal is wilder, with a black sand beach and green cliffs. They are 15 minutes apart, so you can easily see both in a day.
How do I get to Seixal from Funchal?
By car it takes about 50–60 minutes via São Vicente. Without a car, a west-coast jeep tour or day trip is the easiest option, as buses are infrequent.